A Chukchi Blow and Crossing the Arctic Circle
September 12, 2019
Days at Sea: 283
Days Since Departure: 348
Noon Position: 66 54N 167 71W
Course(t)/Speed(kts): SxW 7
Wind(t/tws): E 25+
Sea(t/ft): E10+, steep and breaking
Sky/10ths Cover: Overcast 10
Bar(mb): 995 and falling
On-deck Temp(f): 51
Cabin Temp(f): 57 (no heater today)
Water Temp(f): 48
Relative Humidity(%): 60
Magnetic Variation: 8.3
Sail: Triple reefed main and working jib, reach.
Noon-to-Noon Miles Made Good (nm): 141
Miles since departure: 36,020
We had a fine sailing breeze after rounding Point Hope last night–full sail, wind abeam. But by 2am I was reefing and by dawn I had three reefs in everything and was all out of reefs. Mo flew, but it was hard work.
The real story during this blow–the seas. The wind has been strong, but at 30 knots it’s been nothing to write home about, except for what it’s done to the water. The Coast Pilot reports that current here flows N at 1 – 2.5 knots over an uneven bottom that is shallow throughout the entire Chukchi. The wind overnight was mostly E but had a N component to it. Result: by mid-morning we were wrestling with vertical and crashing 10 – 12 foot seas on the beam.
With water flying everywhere, I was glad I’d buttoned Mo up tight over these last two days.
We’ve had plenty of practice with riding the edge of seas like these in the southern ocean. Sometimes down there the approaching low and our course were out of sync, and we’d have to ride the first phase of a 30 to 40 knot blaster with seas abeam, much bigger seas than these. You get used to judging what the boat can take; where her “tipping point” might be. Bottom line: as long as she’s moving fast, Mo is rock-solid, even when fully broadsided.
That’s the rational brain talking by the way. The brain I live in isn’t so sanguine when Mo is T-boned by a Mac truck that puts her windows in the water. I’ve been biting my nails all day.
Wind is easing now, but the current against has done us no such kindness.
156 miles to Nome. Still 30 hours further on at this pace.
—
At 4:30pm local, Mo and Randall passed south of 66 34N at 168 06W and in so doing crossed the Arctic Circle. We are now officially out of the high north. What’s more, we have completed a Northwest Passage, which is defined by some as a route over Canada and Alaska from Arctic Circle to Arctic Circle.
We entered the Arctic on July 27 and exited on September 12 for a passage length of 47 days and a sailing distance of 3,035 miles.
This is Mo’s third Northwest Passage. Her first was as Asma with Clark Stede and Michelle Poncini in 1990, and her second was as Gjoa with Glenn and Ann Bainbridge in 2014/15. But this is her first solo run. Mine too.
(September 13 note: In hindsight, I’m not sure where I got the idea that an Arctic Circle to Arctic Circle route is a Northwest Passage. More on that tomorrow.)
Congratulations Randall.
Congrats on the passage — pretty much the upper part of the 8 too! (although needing yet to close it, the 8. …all the best for that too)
Congratulations! And I am sure that it is nice to be moving into the Pacific heading for home (although I can imagine that the Pacific may be anything but calm).
Cheers! Huzzas! Roos! and Great Tailwaggings! from Mom (the cheers! of course) and all of us across the great Sequoyah Divide.
Just totally fantastic! Congratulations! But still keep that “weather eye” out. It’s not over until you ride the waves beneath the Golden Gate.
Congratulations Randall, been hanging on every post and appreciate you and your sharing.
Felicitaciones Randall !!
Congrats from philly! I have very much enjoyed your updates and your tenacity. What will you do when you get home and the house isn’t moving?
Congratulations! Each day I check your position, and check for new posts – then turn to the daily paper. Your posts are beautifully written, your photos bring us there, and I appreciate your spirit that drives this difficult quest. We’re all cheering for you!
Good job. Stay safe. Keep going.
Congratulations Randall, well done on completion of the transit. Mo will get another entry in the record book…
The other Canadian anthem – Ah, for just one time I would take the Northwest Passage
To find the hand of Franklin reaching for the Beaufort Sea;
Tracing one warm line through a land so wild and savage
And make a Northwest Passage to the sea. (Stan Rogers)
Randall, you have done it, a North West Passage, that you can proudly sing of.
A toast to you, Moli, and all the pieces that make her a superb boat.
Hugs, Connie McCann
Proud of you Randell. Sail home safely Captain. We are waiting for the celebration
Hey MATE!!!! well done.. !! 🙂 nearly home..keep cool and tie the knot hey!!…Woop Woop!!…Fantastic….
Your adventure, is our adventure re-learning geography that we may never have known. Visiting places with you that cause us to google them and learn of remote people and places. While you look forward to a homecoming, we are going to miss the daily connection with you and Mo. Congratulations!
Sounds like the sea is throwing some more sass your way so it doesn’t look like it gave up the Figure 8 too easily.
So great to see that pic of you smiling as you marked that rather awesome milestone. Sending cheers your way and hopes for more sympathetic waters as you head for the Golden Gate.
Great job – We are hanging onto every word. We hope when you return to the Bay Area that you’ll come to Richmond Yacht Club and share your adventure?